and so the story continues…

oct 19 stunning breakfast location. saw many snow covered peaks nowknown as elephant cucumber shivlik nanda gunti. walked through forest glades rather english in appearnce. camp at lunchtime. lovely lazy aftternoon learning to play crib after hair and body wash in icy mountain stream. babalu is having a game-how difficult can he make the access to the toilet tent. today we have to cross a stream and avoid a bog. this camp was gingipani.

thurs 20
long day uphill then down for several hours to the suspension in the picture. some of us found this rather difficult. passed through a village gingi i thiink. very interesting with lots of drying crops. kids very interested in us and we played bubbles. long uphill and after five hours stopped for lunch. we amused several bunches of very scruffy urchins when getting our beds ready and away again in morning. found the answwer to the question do they have pants? the little lad with jeans held up by string certainly didnt.this is pana camp. thuner and lightening overnigjt at over 3000 mts.

fri 21
happy wedding anniversary shel and dominic. lots of up and down today ending at 3200mts at dakwani just below kuari pass. found a fantastic shower of river seeping over rck face.
had one of those btilliant moments that money cant buy and guides cant organise. our garwhal mule men invited us round their campfire and sang us traditional garwhalian songs accompanied by drumming via stick and tin.
sat 22

up at 5so we could get over kuari pass before afternoon cloud descended. highest point so far at 3600 mts. slight headache for some. vista incredible row after row brown tree covered mountains with snow apped peaks behind in a 270 degree panorama. di very happy as we beat the mules to the top. very welcome lunch of kedgeree after 7hours walking at tali.
hilarious afternoon of frisbee with mulemen around trees and tents.
learnt how to make roti. amazing what these guys can produce over a wood firre and kerosene stove.
sun 23
superb walk but not for the faint hearted. narrow path cut into sheer cliff with some landslides and rocks to negotiate. one of us was greatly helped by babalu strongly encouraging their traverse eg frogmarcged round.
finaaly swa nanda devi and ad a photo moment with our team tshirts.
had some long breaks along the way trying to absorb the scenary. arrived at korsal. went back up to see view by daylight then sunset and sunrise.

mon 24

slow pack up after early start for sunrise visit. took team photos with all the crew.
walked for an hour then emerged into the strangest place. auli which is a ski resort when there is snow. cable cars draglifts etc and a clifftop resort that wouldnt look out of place in france. it feels like we have been isolated from reality for a few weeks . it was quite surreal to see cars and smartly dressed tourists.

said goodbye to the mule boys and got into jeeps for the journet to rudrapryag. madness!!
not only are the roads cut into the mountain slopes not only are the roads barley wide neoufg for two vehicles not only are thre cows pigs dogs small kids roamimg the road not oly would the hairpin bends make swiss mountain road look like childs play but then there are landslides that obliterate half the raod and the barrier where it exists. the tata trucks roar towards us even where ther road looks like a waterfall and is single track. everyone overtaked particularly on blind corners relying on their horns to alert oncoming traffic.

still we arrived with only one skirmish with a moped who took umbrage a how close the jeep was.

turns out it is the festival of dhanteras where lazmi insists that you buy gold silver and household items. she who must be obeyed!!!!

we are now back in sriniga awaiting paratha for breakfast as our hotel would still be making it now if we had waited. wrote this whilst being thown around in the back of the jeep over yet more landslides. more later……..

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waiting for driver

up at six. driver stayed in town and hasnt turned up yet. despite offering fast food this place couldnt rustle up tea even so babalu bought some from the stand opposite.
we will see the evening aarti in haridwar

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Girls well in Rudraprayag

Simon: Angie writes: this a cut’n’paste from an email to me:

In rudraprayag. interesting journey from auli. spent a few hours
trying to blog but it wont load. gmail is much faster. saw sunset and
rise over nanda devi.
others fantasising over what food they want on their return. surprise me!!!

so they’re alive and well and demanding gourmet meals. All normal then.

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judith for sink plug. very handy in hotels!
also bedbag idea. great whe arriving cold in camp.

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whilst i like a nice walk……

blog from rudraprayg. taken ages to load and now low battery.
amazing trekking. mountains rather stunning. road here sheer madness. more tomorrow on that. haridwar at six tomorrow. today is festival of dhanteras where it is customary to buy household products!!!!

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All well from above Josimath

Simon here. Angie emailed earlier: all fine, though v cold. Hoping to get to Josimath tomorrow. Lots of googlable pics on internet for those interested, which you will be, otherwise you wouldn’t be here. Girls hope to check in tomorrow. Lovely mountains apparently!

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Why’s it so *&$^ing cold at 3100 metres above Ramni?

The Nanda Devi trekkers demanded to know why it’s colder higher up. I’m told:

It’s the lack of atmosphere, or rather, of atmospheric pressure, that sucks the heat out of high places. At sea level, the pressure is around 14.7 pounds per square inch. At five thousand feet it’s around 12.2 pounds per square inch. While humans are comfortable at either level, that’s quite a change in pressure.

For gases, a change in pressure means a change in temperature. Depending on the conditions, there can be a lot of ways to look at this. One is that pressure is an outside force, and pumps energy into the thing it is pressurizing. Looked at that way, it’s natural that gas molecules under high pressure would be at a higher energy level than gas molecules under less pressure. Another is that with a decrease in pressure gas often increases in volume. If the same number of gas molecules are in a bigger space, they don’t jostle into each other as much, and their total kinetic energy is spread out over a larger area, lowering the average temperature.

Air molecules at low altitudes are crowded together in cities. Rough, unpredictable, they’re likely to bounce off each other, and run riot through the streets, and go to nightclubs with guns stuck in the waistbands of their jean shorts. They’re at a high energy and that makes for a high temperature.

Meanwhile, high altitude air molecules wander in solitude, a pack on their back and a cranky yak carrying their tent behind them. They have more space to wander around in, and because they don’t bounce off each other as much, because they’re not crammed into a small space by the pressure of the air above them, each square inch has a much lower temperature than sea level air.

Which is why, if you’re climbing Mount Everest, you should bring a sweater.

Simon adds: actually other reasons too: ground absorbs heat and, well, a mountain isn’t surrounded by ground. That’s why it’s a mountain, girls! Also the albedo of that ground. A mountain covered in ice and white snow will reflect most light coming at it. A large flat, brown plain will absorb all the radiant energy coming its way. The difference isn’t in ground, or in air temperature, but in the amount of the sun the ground takes in.

I do hope this has answered your question. Now get walking! Faster faster!

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